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Sunday, 09 March 2025

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I agree and disagree with Ken & Rick on various issues. Depending on the intended use, one might prefer central sharpness and care less about the outer areas, whereas another application might require sharpness across the frame. Second, there is a "look" to different lenses that can only be seen by shooting various examples (ie. your 40mm Summicron Leica/Rokkor). Then there is focal length. I have used a 28/35/50 Tri-Elmar for a couple of years now. It has taught me that 50-60% of my pictures, mostly travel, are taken with the 50mm, 10-15% with 35mm and 20-30% with 28mm. You could also use a zoom lens for this, but the results would be less discrete. I tried a Q3 but the distortion with its 28mm was too much for me. The Q3 43 is, as Ken points out, simply amazing, but do I need that much? I compared the 50 Apo Summicron-M to my Tri-Elmar's 50 and yes it was better, but not by so much that I kept it. For what it's worth, when I used to shoot weddings I liked the Canon EF 50mm f1.4 and, believe it or not, the 50mm f2 ZM Planar. For sports and wildlife any of the Canon EF-L zoom lenses. All generalizations aside, it simply depends on the individual user and lens.

I remember reading one of your articles that said something like: choose the lens you want to use, and then choose a camera to use that lens.

I really agree with that approach, even now when pretty much all lenses are really good. I first did this when I wanted to use the Nikkor 58mm f/1.4G, my personal "number one" lens. I bought a Nikon D750 to use this lens.

Later I changed to Fuji to downsize my gear from the big Nikon DSLR's and lenses I had to something smaller, and I chose Fuji because I wanted to use the small f/2 primes (fujicrons). This approach worked out pretty good for me. Now my entire kit is an X-T5 with the 35mm f2 (on the camera 90% of the time) and the 16-50mm kit lens, which I found to be a great value and good for travel.

There's something in the Nikkor 50 1.8S that haunts me, of course I sold it! The Bokeh and focus range is certain a big part of it, but just the working distance made me work a bit more than my customary 26-35mm walkabout range that I put a bit more though into a lot of what I was shooting as well. My Sigma 35 1.4 is also magic - but again, if I'm carrying that beast on an adapter now, it's with intent. So it's always teh combo of the mechanical properties of teh lens and how the artist responds to it, I guess.

Hi, am wondering about loudspeakers giving great imaging - what brought about this attribute in a pair of speakers have you discovered? Could it be just listening @ near field or other factors eg. toe in, placement from rear wall, cables, number or size of drive units, size of cabinet, others. Thanks.

Ocular migraines: I get them, too. They were a mystery to me when the first landed. Swirling vision, challenge to focus. The docs gave me all sorts of tests…and concluded “ocular migraine.”

Usually brought on by too much caffeine and stress. Two Advil and they're gone in 20 minutes.

I found that the simple one piece meniscus in a box camera gave pretty good results-


https://hermankrieger.com/bikepath.htm

I think this quote is relevant here - it’s not about getting credit, it’s about making something wonderful.

“There's lots of ways to be, as a person. And some people express their deep appreciation in different ways. But one of the ways that I believe people express their appreciation to the rest of humanity is to make something wonderful and put it out there.
And you never meet the people. You never shake their hands. You never hear their story or tell yours. But somehow, in the act of making something with a great deal of care and love, something's transmitted there. And it's a way of expressing to the rest of our species our deep appreciation. So we need to be true to who we are and remember what's really important to us.
— Steve Jobs, 2007”

Ken wrote, "if I had to make a choice at this moment mine would be between the APO-Summicron 43mm ƒ/2 and the Summilux 28mm ƒ/1.7 on Leica’s Q3-43 and Q3 fixed-lens cameras," But here we have the entire imaging chain, from lens to electronic processing in the camera to output as RAW/jpeg, etc. . So how do we know if these lenses on their own are better or worse than other lenses of these focal lengths?

I must have been among the 80,000. There's still a good copy at the Internet Archive. https://web.archive.org/web/20130412011759/http://www.steves-digicams.com/smp/09222002.html">http://www.steves-digicams.com/smp/09222002.html">https://web.archive.org/web/20130412011759/http://www.steves-digicams.com/smp/09222002.html

FWIW, I'm from the Rick Neibel school of thought- the only time I really notice a lens is when it fails to deliver (I'm thinking of you, Fujichron 18mm f2). Actually, not true... I stood up and noticed when using both the 18mm on the GR and the 28mm on the Q.

Apologies if this doesn't help, I found an article with that title by you from 2002, internet archive's Wayback Machine link

https://web.archive.org/web/20030207201448/http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-02-09-22.shtml">http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-02-09-22.shtml">https://web.archive.org/web/20030207201448/http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-02-09-22.shtml

The pictures are lovely, regardless.

Every day I go out the door with a camera bag. In the last year, I have only left the house without a camera in hand once that I can remember.

Currently my Every Day Carry bag has a Pentax K-3 and either my HD DA 20-40mm limited zoom or my FA 35/2 AL prime on it as the "Normal" lens. The other one will be in the bag with a DA 15/4 & a DA 70/2.4 giving wide and long. APS-C so, I have effective coverage of 22mm to 105mm and for me that 99.9% in a roughly 20% wide 70% normal 10% long usage pattern. I'm extremely happy with this kit and it's capability. For very rare occasional need (speed or length), I have at home, an FA 50/1.4 and a DAL 55-300 as well. The GAS tank is actually, finally, full...

The only changes I foresee anytime soon is if I go from the K-3 Mk 1 to the Mk 3 or a M3 Monochrome.

Mike captioned one of the pictures, ... a normal 50mm prime from one of the world's best lensmakers.

It is an f/1.2 lens which puts it into a small and costly (almost) specialty category.

Sorry to cheat, but my favorite 50 is the Lumix 20-60. Quite compact, talented and versatile - but I prefer the 40-45mm zone in any case. At the moment a Pentax DA 40mm f/2.8 holds the spot, shot in 4:3 ratio to keep the corners clean since it's an aps:c design. Still awaiting a few more L-mount options before choosing a native option in the 35-45mm space.

After your earlier post which listed the M-Rokkor 40mm f/2 as tops, I got my Minolta CLE out of the closet, and spent Saturday shooting a roll of FP4 with this combo. The results were not up to my expections. The CLE works fine, but the lens has a significant axial looseness, can be pushed in or pulled out a smidgen. After developing and scanning the film I mounted the lens on my Fuji X-T5; the focus peaking showed the movement to be beyond the limits of acceptability. I shall try to get the lens repaired.

It felt great, sitting in Le Grand Orange in Phoenix unobtrusively taking photos of the young fashionistas at this coffee bar. I shall return soon with my Konica FS-1 and Hexanon AR 40mm f/1.8 loaded with HP5.

For visual migraines, 2 x paracetamol 500 mg tablets also work for me within minutes.

RE: Ocular migraines - I've had them for years, usually triggered by bright flashes of light (light off of chrome fittings) while driving; makes for a real adventure! After recent MRI's etc. showed no issues, neurologist suggested 100 mg B2 and 100 mg CoQ10. So far, it seems to be working.

BTW, which camera is it that gives you blinkies "on the edges?" For haptics, I really like the Voigtlander selection.

[My camera is a Sigma FP with a monochrome sensor. --Mike]

I seem to have ended up with 3 m4/3 normals. The Panasonic 20mm f1.8, the Panasonic Leica 25mm f1.4 and the Olympus 17mm f1.8. I seem to use the 25mm most these days: it is fairly small and light and seems to focus much faster than the others, whereas the 20mm in particular (I think the mark 1 version) can take its time...

My favorite 50 for the Leica M system is a Konica - more specifically, a lens that pre-dates the name "Konica" - the Konishiroku 50mm f1.9 from their 1950s. For me, it beats every Summicron from that era that I've tried.
One of my favorite Leitz lenses is the 1930s Summar 50mm, a lens considered "poor" by most folks, but I love its look. It is very sharp in the center, so you learn to use that to your advantage.

Olympus 12-200/3.5-6.3

As pointed out many times above, in various ways, it's how the pix look and feel that matters. This lens is actually optically quite good — up to somewhere around 140 mm. Used on it's own, longer FLs are still decent, and with AI sharpening often great.

User together with:

Olympus 100-400/5-6.3 + 1.4x TC

It gives this eclectic subjects guy the 24-1120 mm eq. range that makes him happy and allows him to make lots of photos he likes.

Olympus 45/1.2

Yeah, I know, this is bash contemporary huge, fast lenses month, but I don't agree that " I'm sorry, but I could take this picture with a 1960s Topcon lens and nobody'd ever know the difference."

That camera (as Topcon Super D in USA) and that lens were the first SLR I really used. I can't now separate which old shots I took with it from those taken with other gear — inadequate records. But I'll bet it had crummier focal transitions and busy background.

Here's an example from a close contemporary, Canon 58/1.2 FD mount.

Note the bokeh in the transition zones, in front of and behind the focal plane. With the Oly 25/1.2, it would all be siky smooth. I prefer that \;~)>

Click on image for full frame.

Whenever I see strong feelings expressed about the 'look' of this or that lens, I can't help but to remember those blind tests where nobody can pick the Leica print from the P&S, or everyone picks the early Sony JPEG over the Fuji or Canon. The placebo effect seems to be having its way with us, big time.

A late comment on the "look" and "sharpness" of lenses (and camera formats): In the 1930's a celebrated Leica photographer published a book comparing photos shot with the Leica compared to larger format camera/lenses. The author's verdict was to tout the quality of the smaller format, suggesting it was comparable to the larger cameras popular at the time. I have a copy of that book and can easily pick out the photos taken with the Leica as less sharp and having less gradation in contrast. Now, that is just fine if one is taking portraits (the reason for special soft focus Large Format lenses) or into a more pictoralistic style of photography, but for the criteria the authors were claiming, it just wasn't there. But, the book was very popular and still referred to today in some circles, showing that oft-repeated mantras can be believed, whether accurate or relevant in this day and age. Leica cameras & lenses have other virtues (I own them) as do the Linhof's I own.

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