« I Said Something Interesting on the Internet | Main | DAVID Turnley Print Sale »

Wednesday, 04 December 2024

Comments

Feed You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post.

Judging lens resolution differences from photos made when NOT using a tripod and cable release just makes no sense. Consider this excerpt from an old Really Right Stuff brochure that was initially published back in 1990…

Why is a tripod essential: Because blur due to lens movement is inevitable at any shutter speed slower than 1/1000 sec., and because it promotes greater care in composition. Handholding is strictly for dead photographers: A human pulse beat will cause 200 microns (about 0.008 inch) displacement for 1/10th second. Assuming a shutter speed of 1/250th sec., this movement alone will cause a 22% loss of resolution with a system that is otherwise capable of reproducing 100 lines-per-mm (lpm). And at a shutter speed of 1/125th sec., this performance would degrade to only 53 lpm—a 47% waste of what you purchased. (Refer John B. Williams: Image Clarity, page 191.)

And one would strive to use the finest resolution film that was then available. In the 1980s that was clearly Kodachrome—most certainly not Tri-X.

[It wasn't a resolution test. It was to see if people can tell the difference between Leica lenses and others in normal everyday shooting. And how often do photographers using hand cameras use tripods in broad daylight? --Mike]

As a side note to your lens comparison print adventure, I remember that in the 1979-82 time frame, when I had access to Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Contax RTS and Leica M lenses (not all at the exact same time, but in close temporal proximity), when the black and white negatives were developed and then hung up to dry, you could tell which lenses had been used just by looking at the dry but still hanging negatives; Leica-shot negs were distinct from Zeiss. L and Z each were instantly distinguishable from the Nikon, Canon, or Olympus negs. Looking at the little monochrome 135 negs with the naked eye obviously doesn't compare "sharpness" or detail rendering, but rather displays the different overall tonal contrast delivered by each.

Mr. Millier's lengthy comment and your reply both strike excellent points.

As a postscript, my experience has been that, using good care and modern post-processing software, the most recent Olympus/OMD M4/3 cameras using the 20MP sensor (OM-D, E-M1, Pen-F) can produce exhibition quality prints up to about 18x24 inches or better under a broad variety of circumstances. Older cameras with 16MP M4/3 sensors don't do quite as well.

Although I occasionally use Pentax APS-C and FF cameras, I find that M4/3 seems to better fit certain subjects and more spontaneous styles of photography and hence is carried and used more often.

Static and more contemplative subjects seem to benefit from the slow, methodical approach required to use large-format film cameras.

To some extent, given more or less equivalent image quality under many circumstances, it's more a matter of using the equipment that best fits the subject, process and mood.

an early digital camera, the Nikon D40 with 6.1 MP, was adequate for the Internet, and prints of 11x14.

I’m primarily a film guy, but I’ve used APS-C systems for years for product photography, and finally “upgraded” to full frame this year - albeit to a (now very old) Leica M240.

As a general rule, I agree with your stance that most sensor and lens combos are… fine? I don’t think many photographers are really pushing what any system can do, regardless of sensor size.

The places where it really makes a difference are less about the image quality and more about the workflow, I find.

For instance, APS-C annoyed me for “casual” use, as the lenses I had racked up for 35mm film bodies didn’t have the same field of view on an APS-C camera. On the M240, they behave exactly the same as they do on my film rangefinders; it’s nice shooting the 15mm Voigtlander Super Wide Heliar on digital and actually getting the full field of view instead of a ~21mm equivalent (if memory serves).

On the other hand, my partner swaps between Nikon film bodies and a m4/3 Olympus body where the "crop factor" is even more pronounced. Why? Because she likes photographing birds. There, the crop factor works in her favour.

Of course, if you prefer cropping after the fact, you want to go the other way - start with the bigger sensor, crop down later. (Hell, that’s the whole modus operandi of Leica’s Q cameras.) Cropping down from an m4/3 sensor will become noticeable much sooner than cropping from a “full frame” one.

But, yeah… workflow. Horses for courses, and it’s good to have options.

I have noticed that pretty there is not a lot of difference between APS-C, and FF cameras. I have been using a Nikon D850 as my main camera for several years now. One lens that I use on the camera is an older Nikkor 35mm PC lens, I use the shift perspective to compose my pictures and I do not know of another lens that is relatively small and works the same way. It sure is like using a large format camera lens, I have to stop it down manually for the desired ƒ stop. Yes the D850 is a pretty big camera compared to other smaller and lighter digital cameras out there in today's market. My current kit with a tripod and a couple of other lenses, 50mm and 85mm is much lighter than my 4x5 kit, back then I only carried enough film for about 16 shots in a day.


When I moved from film Leicas to digital I went for Sony because (with a low cost adapter) I could use my Leica lenses on the Sony bodies. All those highly acclaimed Leica lenses have now been exchanged for Sony G and GM lenses. Comparisons between the two lens brands were quick and easy and the results unambiguous. Did I forget to mention "autofocus"?

I selected a full format Sony because the body size was not that much larger than Micro 4/3 or APS and the latter ones were not pocketable anyway. (My Leica M6 and 7 were not pocketable either.)

About printing; I have an Epson SC-P 700 and I am amazed how much real detail this printer can lay down on paper. As much as my rather recent 16-inch MacBook Pro can show on the screen. Provided, of course, I print high quality TIFFs and not JPEGs. And yes, printing takes about three times longer, but is is worth the wait.

I am slowly coming to my point. All recent digital cameras are more than good enough for most of us. If we have used film cameras for years, then we must learn new tricks especially if our aim was and is a wide tonal range and immaculate resolution.

- No need to shoot at ISO 100; sensors have "finer grain equivalent" than film.
- Forget about filling the frame because cropping no longer decreases IQ as it used to do.
- Stop shooting hand held at 1/15 second; the sensor is much more unforgiving to camera shake than film was.
- Depth of field is a different experience compared to film. Difficult to pinpoint.
- No need for limited range zooms, crop instead and save weight.

Thanks very much for these last two posts. I shoot Olympus m4/3s, never saw the need for bigger sensors. But lately, fuelled in part by G.A.S. I'm sure, I've been looking at buying a 24 to 36 mpix DSLR with a couple of f/1.8 primes, say 50 and 28, for slow landscape or other similar work. One driving reason for this is that I can buy such a body + 2 lens collection for about $1000 Canadian, so it seems kind of a shame not to. That's obviously G.A.S. talking.

Another reason is that my heart really belongs to Pentax and I was looking at a system consisting of a K-1 with a couple of Pentax Limited lenses. Obviously, that would not be a rational purchase.

Having read what you and others have to say. it's not clear to me how much I would gain by buying a new full-frame system. One responder mentioned low-light work, but the additional work involved in getting good low-light results from m4/3s, by perhaps stacking multiple shots or other practices, is a feature to me. Since this is just fun for me, there's no reason that my priorities should match anyone else's.

I have even had the occasional urge to re-buy an old 4/3s Olympus E-620 just to force myself to live with the limitations of its ancient 12 mpix sensor.

[Well, just wanting something is a good enough reason to get it. YOLO. And some things we just have to "demystify." Give yourself six months with the FF camera, then sell it. Then you'll know what it's like and remember the experience, and if you divide the money you lose into 365 divided by 2 (where the heck is the division sign on the keyboard??), it probably won't turn out to cost you much every day. --Mike the camera & lens purchase enabler]

Give an accomplished artist any camera and he or she will create outstanding images that speak to their artistic truth. In my experience photographers spend about 90% of their time obsessing over equipment and maybe 10% honing their ability to produce an expressive image or series of images that work together. Just my two bits.

Ansel Adams: "For fully half of the photography done in the world, a Kodak or Ansco box camera would be adequate."

Mike—You ask…"how often do photographers using hand cameras use tripods in broad daylight?" Well, in the case of widely known and published nature photographers—e.g., John Shaw, Art Wolfe, Galen Rowell, Ansel Adams, David Muench, Frans Lanting, Larry West, John Gerlach, et al—the correct answer is almost always.

How do I happen to know this? Basically because nature photography has been my exclusive photographic interest since the late 1960's, so I've become acquainted with some of these people through personal contact (conferences, workshops, etc.), plus I've read a good many of their books and magazine articles. Indeed, it was my intense interest in nature photography that prompted me to initiate the company Really Right Stuff in 1990.

Do appreciate that nature photography is a very popular specialty, with wide general appeal and lots of commercial exposure. If you'd like to learn more about the scope of nature photography—a specialty that encompasses the use of optics ranging from long telephotos to macro focus closeup lenses—I'd recommend any of the numerous books written by John Shaw. He was an inspiration to me, and he's simply a great nature photographer.

[He is. The third-to-last post on his sadly now moribund blog shows an old picture of him standing on a stepladder in a creek, using a giant tripod. And, for very closeup and very long lenses, yes. So, point taken. Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks. --Mike

https://www.johnshawphoto.com/before-there-were-drones/ ]

Mike wondered '(where the heck is the division sign on the keyboard??),'

Ironically, it is the un-shifted question mark key.


Patrick

[Thank you! --Mike]

"And how often do photographers using hand cameras use tripods in broad daylight?"

The serious answer to that seemingly snarky question is: "it depends on what you shoot." My most frequently used lens, by a wide margin, is a 500 mm tele. I use it with a tripod the vast majority of the time, and I use it exclusively in daylight. I don't know what you mean by a "hand camera," but I would think my DSLR qualifies as one since I can also shoot it handheld.

I agree with Keith B.

For a while I shot with a Canon F1N and FD 85/1.8 and Leica M2 and 90mm Summicron, both on HP5. Easy to pick the Leica negatives when hanging up to dry, and not from exposure errors. Micro contrast possibly?

Once I had shown her the difference, my non-photographer wife could do it with 100% accuracy as well.

More a case of each company making a few outstanding lenses, not overall Leica superiority I think.

Steve Biro saying Sigma lenses make strict use of Leica glass unnecessary is more accurate than most people probably know: if you track down the patents, an awful lot of lenses in the L mount and Micro 4/3 mount that have the Leica name on them are actually designed and built by Sigma.

The comments to this entry are closed.

Portals




Stats


Blog powered by Typepad
Member since 06/2007