Several readers have mentioned the Fuji X-Pro1's lack of built-in diopter correction. A commenter named peter [sic—I always reproduce commenter names just as they come in] mentioned this morning that Nikon FM-style diopters fit the Fuji's eyepiece. That's fortunate, because those are the most common aftermarket diopters (well, they're not aftermarket, but they might as well be), and they're widely available.
At B&H Photo, they'll be labeled "Diopter for FM3A, FM2, FM, FE2, FE & FA" and they cost $21.95 each. Admittedly, that doesn't help if you don't know what diopter you need, but maybe your optician could help you there. Or perhaps you have another camera on which the diopter correction dial or slider is marked with actual values.
I need a –2 diopter and I like to use old cameras from time to time, so I'm very sensitive to the diopter issue. The biggest problem with add-on diopters is not the need to use them while the camera's still current, but rather the headache of finding them for older, discontinued cameras that have dedicated or proprietary eyepieces. Try finding a –2 diopter for a Spotmatic, for instance. In one case, I got rid of a beautiful old camera—an Agfa Super Isolette—because I really needed a diopter for it. I could have epoxied a plastic-framed diopter over the eyepiece easily enough, but in the end I decided I just didn't want to be responsible for vandalizing such a beautiful old camera in that way. I sold it on instead.
Incidentally, the Agfa Super Isolette, also called the Ansco Super Speedex (same camera, different marketing) is an awesomely overbuilt German mechanical camera capable of wonderful results. If you have young eyes and happen to have lusted after the Fuji GF670 (also called the Voigtländer Bessa III 667—same camera, different marketing), the Super Isolette is a great alternative for one-quarter to one-eighth the price. It's an easy camera to learn to use. (I'd buy mine from Jurgen Kreckl at Certo6.com—in fact, I did.)
To bring this post full circle, I believe the Fuji GF670 also accepts Nikon FM-style diopters...although you shouldn't take my word for that.
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A book of interest today:
(To see all the comments, click on the "Comments" link below.)
Featured Comments from:
Doug: "Some technical notes on dioptric correction lenses.
"Nikon, like Canon and maybe other manufacturers, labels their correction lenses by the total effect when mounted on a camera with the standard –1 diopter viewfinder, so a '–2' lens has an additional –1. There is no '–1' correction lens, because that'd be plain glass. There is, however, a '0' (Nikon seems to call it 'neutral') correction lens that has a +1 correction.
"Dioptric numbers for viewfinders are straightforward. They determine the apparent distance (for eye-focusing) of the viewscreen. They're numbered in –1/meters.
–0.5: 2 meters
–1 (standard viewfinder): 1 meter
–2: 1/2 meter
–3: 1/3 meter
+anything: Buzz Lightyear territory (infinity and beyond)
Jim Gamblin: "B&H has the Fuji diopters for $14.95. also Voigtlander diopters will worko on the Fuji X-Pro1, maybe a little higher priced. [Stephen Gandy sells those—thanks to Bill Lewis for that. —Ed.] Look for 19mm thread. Unlike the Nikon diopters, buy the others to match your perscription. After putting a +2 (just like my reading glasses) on my X-Pro1 it felt like a new camera—worth the price and effort."
JonA: "You need to keep quiet about the Agfa cameras! Keeps the prices down while most people go for the famous-named Zeiss and Voigtlaender ones and they therefore keep the prices high on those. I like square format and Tessar lenses so I've been figuring I'd buy an Agfa Super Isolette from certo6 whenever I had the money to spend. (If you wait until you have the money to spend you'll never have it or you'll have already spent it on something else)."
John Robison: "I'm surprised modern, expensive cameras don't all have built in diopter correction. Of course if you have more than a minor astigmatism correction then it probably would not work very well. I have found that as I've aged it is harder to find the exact correction for my film SLR. I still prefer manual focus but my focus error rate is increasing."
Mike replies: Me too, and mine too. I'm smack in the middle of middle age (making me middle-middle-aged), and I guess autofocus was made for folks of my (our?) vintage.
Ctein replies: If you're using a rangefinder camera with superimposed-image focusing, it's important to correct your vision for both astigmatism and focus. If you have astigmatism and you do not correct for it with glasses or a prescription eyepiece, you will get an erroneous focus. Read my column (and the comments) on this. A simple diopter correction will not solve the problem.